It even rained in Loiyangalani. As we came into the desert oasis town the steam was rising from the evaporating puddles in the road. Kura pointed out the Turkana settlements on the outskirts of the village. We splashed through the overflow water from the borehole that provided plentiful water to the settlement; naked children wavedRead More
Baba Rungu Gets a Blessing
Our journey through Laisamis district continued to be challenging. The rain had stopped but it took days for the muddy, clay roads to dry out. We got stuck on numerous occasions but soldiered on and actually made it across the Kaisut Desert in time for lunch in Korr. Doug had the opportunity to see ourRead More
Breaking out Plan B
The clouds had been gathering for days before our final night at Sirikoi Camp. During the early hours, cracks of thunder could be heard in the distance. Lightening lit up the roof of our tent. At dawn we heard a pride of nearby lions who growled and whoofed their displeasure. When our coffee arrived atRead More
A Lala Kidogo (small sleep) with the Baby Cheetah
Corwin and I do a morning game drive in Samburu – not as exciting as the night before – but we are still rewarded with the extraordinary sight of another leopard. As we drive out of the park, Kura and I take David and Corwin past the dead elephant that we had seen the nightRead More
Breaking My African Heart
The campsite run by the Isgargaro Women’s group in Loglogo used to be my favorite place to stay during my visits to the area. Over the years, however, the accommodations in other locations have greatly improved, while Isgargaro’s huts and buildings have slowly been devoured by termites and poor maintenance. The beds, made of sticksRead More
Weapons, Testosterone and a Race
A day of rest was all we needed. I felt better and Kura was ready to move. It is hard for people who have left villages like Korr to then return home. The cultural expectation to provide support and money to others is overwhelming. At each village we visit, it does not take long beforeRead More
No, Kura, I Will Not Die
Our time in Loiyangalani includes a few trips to swim in Lake Turkana, about a mile west of town. Brushing aside thoughts of crocodiles, we douse our sun-scorched bodies in the cool water. On our final night, Turkana dancers meet us on the shoreline as the sun sets. Everyone joins them for some hearty footRead More
Swimming with Crocodiles
It is hard not to think about crocodiles when you are swimming in Lake Turkana, supposedly the body of water with the highest concentration of crocodiles in the world. Everyone assures us that the mamba’s (crocodile in Swahili) avoid areas where there are people, especially anywhere near the Elmolo, who hunt the crocodile and incorporateRead More
Turkana
Omar insisted on staying up until Kura arrived. It was after midnight when Kura finally knocked on my hut door to let me know that they had arrived safely. Despite the roads and mechanical problems, he was very excited to tell me that they had seen four cheetahs. We agreed that we would delay theRead More